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One day in the “Camargue”
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From Aigues-Mortes in the "Petite Camargue", we will through the natural reserve of the Camargue with its horses, bulls and flamingos up to the Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer known for its gypsies pelgrims.
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The Camargue
Once you're a few minutes south of Arles, you enter the atmosphere of the area, with its series of long, level roads criss-crossing the marshes and farmlands. Eagles, hawks and harriers soar in the blue skies and muskrats swim along the little canals, often making unsuccessful attempts to cross the roads. Black bulls and white horses graze in the fields, and lines of horseback riders file into the brush to observe the nature first-hand. Cyclists peddle against the winds, along the roads or off on lanes forbidden to motor vehicles.
No jungles or conical hats here, but rice paddies abound, along with grain fields, orchards and even a few vineyards. Salt plains cover the southeastern corner, where the Grand Rhône flows into the sea by Salin-de-Giraud, and the center, surrounding the Etang de Vaccarès, is a huge zoological and botanical nature reserve teaming with wildlife.
Nature Reserve
The Camargue was designated as a botanical and zoological nature reserve in 1927 and 1970, helping to maintain its natural beauty. Spring and Autumn are the best times for seeing the birds, the bulls and the horses of Camargue. Bring a bird book, binoculars and camera ... and some mosquito repellent.
Cultivated Camargue
The upper Camargue has been cultivated since the Middle Ages. The alluvium soil in the Rhône delta is excellent for crops, but must be prepared and maintained. The land had to be drained, and needs to be protected by low dikes. Salt content, which increases during summer evaporation, is reduced by washing down the soil.
Rice cultivation is done on 3-ha plots that are submerged from April to September, and harvested during September and October. Over 30,000 ha (120 square miles) of rice was grown in the early sixties, down to 10,000 ha today. Other crops include large fields of wheat, maize, rape and forage, intermixed with orchards, market gardens and even an occasional vineyard.
Salt Marshes
The southeast corner of the Camargue, near Salin-de-Giraud and the Grand Rhône are the salt marshes ("salins") of Salin de Giraud. Another salt marsh, the Salins du Midi, is located in the southwest corner, west of the Petit Rhône. In the salt marshes you'll see long lines of salt "mountains" drying in the Provencal sun, and the checkerboard salt-pans.
Salt production in the Camargue began in Antiquity, by both the Greeks and the Romans, and continued through the Middle ages. Salt was transported along the Mediterranean coast and then inland on the " Routes du Sel" (Salt Roads), up through the Vaucluse (see Fort de Buoux) or the mountains of the Alpes-Maritime across the Col de Tende ( map) into Piedmont (see Escarène).
From March to September, seawater is pumped about 30 km across salt tables, to form a saturated solution of sodium chloride. The solution is then directed into 9-ha crystalising pans, about 12-cm deep. The solution evaporates all Winter and into the Summer. From the end of August until October, the salt crystals.
Parks and Museums
Parc Ornithologique de Pont de Grau
This fabulous ornithological park is located beside the D570 road near Ste. Maries-de-la-Mer. There are 9 ha (20 acres) of marshlands, set amidst the greater nature reserve, with the birds of Camargue in the wild and in large cages. Most of the birds of Camargue, both resident and migratory, can be seen here close-to-hand. The central area of the park has birds of prey, with many different owls, eagles, hawks, harriers, buzzards and vultures. Marsh birds and sea birds are here, with geese, swans, ducks, egrets, storks and herons. And of course the icon of the Camargue, the pink flamingo.
Long paths circle out through the marshes away from the center, where you see nature as it should be. Birds wading and fishing and flying. Fish jumping half out of the water and muskrats swimming along the edges or crossing the paths in front of you.
Aigues-Mortes
The creation of the city of Aigues-Mortes is attributed to Marius Caius, around 102 B.C. According to PAGEZY, it was not until the X° century that a document was discovered showing a region called Ayga Mortas in common language ( or Dead Water) which later became Aigues-Mortes. Then in the XII° century, the world turned towards Aigues-Mortes, more precisely in 1240. At this time, Louis IX must leave in crusade with the others sovereigns of Europe to take over Jerusalem. It does not possess a port open to the Mediterranean and the king decides that Aquae Mortuae (Dead Water) will be the French port and therefore the point of departure for his expedition. In effect, to the east, the port of Marseille belongs to the emporer Germain and to the west, the baron of Montpellier is ruled by the king of Aragon...
Aigues-Mortes is nevertheless not a port since it is located on the shores of an immense lagoon that only communicates with the sea by estuaries. To populate this city encircled by impure ponds, Louis IX grants it particular advantages in the form of a consular charter. To reach the city of Aigues-Mortes by land, a roadway was dug through ponds that will be defended by the "Carbonnière Tower" (still visible today).
In 1248, Saint Louis embarks for the 7th crusade from Aigues-Mortes. The city is almost finished and becomes an important economic area for trade with the eastern countries. It is also at this time that Saint-Louis builds the TOWER of CONSTANCE on the ruins of the Matafère Tower (built by Charlemagne) to protect the coast, the port and the city.In 1270, Saint Louis embarks from Aigues-Mortes for the 8th crusade which also be his last as he dies not long after of typhus, off the coasts of Tunisia.
Afterwards, the Tower of Constance became a very famous prison. Amongst its prisoners, it had Saint Louis' nephew, as well as other well-known people : templars, camisards and bonapartists. It was also known to be a redoubtable fort for protestant women.
the Saintes Maries de la Mer
This little town is situated on the Mediterranean coast in the Heart of Camargue's Parc Naturel (nature park). Surrounded by immense plains filled with ponds and wild lands the city has many activities to offer all within the framework of a protected environment. St. Maries is especially famous for its oldest tradition which consists of being the meeting place for the gypsy people. Their rich folklore and music attract many visitors all throughout the year. There are many ranches (called manades) where both bulls and horses are bred. These ranches welcome visitors and in some cases will be glad to put you up. It is an excellent way to get to know the famous Camargue cowboys and their livestock.
Don't miss the fauna and flora ot Camargue at the Launes Pond and do take a walk along the Port Gardian, the fishing and boating port ot St. Maries. And finally for those devoted windsurfers, there is a speed canal waiting for you right next to the port......for the fearless only!
The new settlements of SAINTES-MARIES-DE-LA-MER rise on the horizon toppled by the mighty Notre Dame-de-la-Mer. Of the 85,000 ha of Camargue, there is 38,000 attributed to Arles, therefore the largest “commune “ of France. Arles is also the “brain centre” of Camargue: Farmers meet for their business in the cafes along boulevard des Lices.
Everything that is repulsive about the degenerate delta is in Saintes - Maries - de-la-Mer during the summer, but in the winter and early spring I was stunned about the silence and peace around Notre Dame and the generosity of the way the sea caresses endless beaches. And during winter this wonderful village doesn’t count more than 25,000 inhabitants, while it is flooded during the summer by 80,000 vacationers. Wild camping along the beaches, liked it was permitted all along the years, is forbidden today. The adventurous seafront walk --dream route for all those wanting to see Camargue—is prohibited for motorised vehicles. My friends drivers, leave your car at the parking and loiter. It’s only on foot, horseback or bicycle that you can walk the 15km, an experience not to miss! This sea embankment was built in 1857. Along 15 km, this dike will take you to the phare de Gacholle. Take your time to take a glimpse of the sea birds, like the yellow-legged gulls, slender-billed gulls, or the tern as it dives into the water for fish. A fine breeze blows across these waters making them particularly good for wind-surfing. You could suddenly stand eye in eye with a sand-lizard, a grey-purple heron, a white stilt-walker, grass snakes and a lot more of these cute little things......
Saintes-Maries didn't wait for my self-guides to invent tourism!! Since 19 centuries pilgrims have found the way to this (for the gypsies) holy place. Today, every year, pilgrimages happen on May 24 and 25 to honour different saints like Saint-Jacoba and Saint-Maria Salomé on Sundays approaching October 22. Considerable crowd converges to Saintes-Maries and the city takes the more authentic aspect at these periods than the rest of the year!! A huge procession take the reliquaries of saint Sara (the black maids servant of Marie) out of the chapel of Notre Dame and bring them to the sea, where the bishop blesses the water that allegedly brought them to Saintes Maries.
What can you do in Saintes Maries?
The church of Saintes-Maries , Notre Dame de la Mer is impressive. It has the typical exterior of a fortified church. And you must imagine that the spot where you stand used to be many kilometres from the sea in Middle ages. The church, build in the 12th century, contains the alleged remains of saint Sarah and the two Marias. In French they call this kind of finding “une invention” (an invention), not to call it “a made-up story”. The bodies are said to have rested on stones that are kept below in the crypt and have become "miracle " stones. They are said to heal painful eyes and to have the power to cure sterility in women. The high chapel of Saint-Michel, houses their tombs.
Don't fall into the Tiki tour tourist trap!! A wheel-boat ascendsthe Petit Rhone to show you....nothing. Except a few birds, there is nothing to see! You are being warned.
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